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The Spanish Civil War Living History Group |
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La Columna flew to Madrid on 11th February and checked into the Hotel Asturias (2-stars) on Calle Sevilla; this is a clean place with en-suite facilities plus breakfast and dinner is available if required. It is very central with easy access to Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, Prado and all other places of interest.
Friday afternoon was spent sight seeing and shopping for books; we spent Friday evening socialising and catching up since our last meetings.
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Chris and Charlotte enjoy a beer at a Bar on Calle Toledo, and a shot of the same street during the War
Saturday dawned dry, bright and warm. We met up with Juan Rey of la Asociación de Amigos de las Brigadas Internacionales (AABI) in the hotel and from there caught the Metro to Embajadores Station.
A short walk found us in the workshop of Angel Rojo. Angel was a welcoming host and had laid out a display of his SCW collection which we were allowed to handle and photograph. We were also able to purchase some equipment from Angel to help improve La Columna’s educational presentations.
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Inside Angel's workshop
Bidding Angel farewell we caught the bus to El Rastro along with two friends of Juan’s: Miguel & José. I never did learn their surnames! At El Rastro, a large bric a brac market, we were able to buy blankets, mess tins, cups and the like. We then broke for an excellent lunch in an eatery near Plaza Coscorro
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At lunch with our new Spanish Comrades
Post-lunch we headed for Metro Moncloa and the second part of the day.
Juan’s English is first-rate as is his knowledge of La Guerra Civil. He carried out a running commentary on the buildings we were observing and the events relating to them; including the site of the Carcel Modelo and Montana Barracks. The number of repaired bullet holes in the buildings along Paseo de Moret must be seen to be believed.
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Bullet damaged wall Paseo de Moret
We then crossed the road into Parque del Oeste. Juan explained the ground to us and then led us to study three fascist blockhouses facing the Republican lines.
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Reminders of a more violent time in the serene Paeque del Oeste (Note the bullet holes on the monument)
Moving away from the pill-boxes we headed downhill towards the railway and Punta de Los Franceses: site of the big fascist attack towards the city.
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Studying the maps at the Punta de Los Franceses
Juan then led us back up the hill into the University City. Using contemporary photographs and expert knowledge Juan was able to illustrate the fascist attack into the University complex and the buildings they overran. The only remaining original building is part of Casa Velasquez all others having to be re-built postwar. The Cuidad Universitaria is an enormous place and all the books I have read had not prepared me for the actual view of the ground.
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Comparing the difference between a repaired war damaged column (left) and replaced column (right), University City.
Juan’s tour finished with a climb up the high ground in the university next to the Medical College. A magnificent panoramic view of the University’s buildings with the cloud wrapped, snow covered Sierra Guadarramas in the distance could be seen from up here: Wonderful.
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Left, Walking along the line of 'No mans land' as was during the Civil War (the building on the left was Republican the buildings on the other side of the road were Nationalist)
Right, Our Madrileno guides at the highest point in the University complex with a dramatic Sierra Guadarramas in the back ground
Parting company with our Spanish friends at this point we caught the Metro back to Sol and the hotel. The evening was spent socialising and enthusing about the day’s events... and looking forward to the next day and our visit to the Jarama battlefield.