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The Spanish Civil War Living History Group |
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Members of La Columna and friends at the Republican memorial, Jarama
Sunday morning saw us being transported by car to Morata de Tajuña along the Valencia road. The driver of the car I was in was Jesús Gonzalez, a member of the la Asociación de Amigos de las Brigadas Internacionales (AABI). A man whom I met for the first time that morning but within a short space felt like I’d known him for years!
On the way Jesús pointed out sites of Spanish Civil War interest including the Arganda bridge and the site of the Lincoln Battalion's HQ.
On arrival Jesús took us to the Museo Etnologico "El Cid" a small agricultural museum behind the restaurant Mesón El Cid in Morata de Tajuña that has a large room dedicated to The Battle of Jarama and The Spanish Civil War.
The museum has an excellent display with many photographs and many artifacts from the battlefield. It is well worth a visit if you are in the area.
For details of how to find this museum click here.
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Various artifacts on display in the Museum 'El Cid' in Morata de Tajuña
From Morata de Tajuña we moved up the San Martin road and then onto 'The Sunken Road', famous for being metioned so often in accounts of the British Battalion's time at Jarama. We traveled along this for some distance, past Pingarron Hill, to the area held by Lister’s division.
From here we headed back on ourselves to a Republican held hilll opposite Pingarron. This is studded with prepared positions and the remains of chabola-type dug-outs.
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Dugouts and pill boxes, Jarama
There was also a curious tunnel that linked an artillery position with safe ground on the other side of the hill which was out of range of the fascist lines. Inside there was the remains of graffiti from the war carved into the soft walls. This tunnel was remarkably intact, and very dark!
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Tunnel connecting artillery position with safe ground
From here we drove to the Memorial Cairn near the hills of the British Battalion.
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Following a few minutes reflection and photographs Juan and Jesús led us to the area which was the Battalion’s HQ position, and also to the site of No.2 Company’s machine gun positions on the 12th February 1937.
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Looking back at the Position held by The British No.2 Company on the 12th February 1937
Crossing the valley we made our way up to the hill that was held by 3 and 4 Companies on the 12th February. In front was Conical hill held by No1 Company.
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The Knoll held by the British No.1 Company, 12th February 1937
No map can ever prepare you for viewing the ground over which the British volunteers fought and where so many died.
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It was a truly humbling experience to be there the day after the anniversary of the beginning of the battle for the British Battalion . This was made even more poignant by a remark Jesús made - that the sound of our English voices in the valley was very moving, as this very place would have resounded with English voices some 68 years before..
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Making our way to the British positions
The group then returned to Morata for an excellent lunch at Mesón del Cid after which our Spanish hosts returned us to our hotel in Madrid.
We exchanged gifts and warm handshakes; promising to keep in touch, which we have done. We then sadly parted company with our new friends..
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Sunday evening passed in a bit of a daze as the day’s sights and sounds sunk in, and much talk was had over a glass or two of vino tinto about the days events.
All in all this was a superb trip made even better by the hospitality of Juan, Jesús and the others who gave up their free time to guide us around.. Muchas Gracias amigos!
Salud
Kevin Cotgrave
